Echoes of Ireland’s troubled past, its poetic past, and its glorious present

April 12, 2013

Echoes of Ireland’s troubled past, its poetic past, and its glorious present

Counties Mayo and Sligo, March 24 and 25, 2013

Donna using our good old trusty Lonely Planet Guide, steers us to Mullaghmore, which was a favorite holiday spot for Lord Mountbatten, who was killed there in 1979 when the IRA rigged his yacht with explosives. Mullagmore is a pretty fishing village that is now becoming known as one of Ireland’s premier big wave surf spots with swells up to 17 meters (51 feet – holy Hawaii!).

Just down the road a bit is Drumcliff, and the gravesite of poet William Butler Yeats (1865 – 1939), who is buried in the churchyard of his rector grandfather’s parish. The remains of a round tower that dates to the 6^th century and an 11^th century cross etched with intricate biblical scenes are also found here. And guess who else is here, at least on this day – Jackie and Geoff and all of their kids. Out for a day outing (this was Sunday) they head to exactly the same place we are at – I love these fun coincidences.

Another Lonely Planet trek takes us to Aughris Head and the Beach Bar, where we have a cup of seafood chowder. The Beach Bar is housed in a 17^th century thatched cottage, and had a wonderful atmosphere.

Getting a bit lost once we get to Westport, we finally find Glenderan House B&B; Ann is the proprietor – wonderful room with really comfortable bed, elegant matching cherrywod furniture, and delicious porridge as a starter for our morning breakfast. Dinner at a pub within walking distance of the B&B with a fabulous dessert (even took a pic of that one).

Ann recommended we head out to Achill Island, which is accessible by driving across a bridge, and do the Atlantic Drive. This proved to be a great recommendation, as this drive was fairly deserted but very scenic. Out on the island is Slievemore Deserted Village, which are the remains of 80 stone cottages from an original settlement of 130. In the mid 1800’s the village was abandoned during the potato famine. On the way back to Westport, we stopped by Burrishoole Abbey, the remains of a Dominican Abbey built in 1486.

Shopped and took photos in Westport for a few hours before heading to dinner at the Helm pub, yet another delicious dinner. We have now switched from Guiness, which is a bit stout for both of us to Smithwicks (we found out later it is pronounced Smiticks in Ireland), which is the oldest brewed ale in Ireland.

The next morning Ann warmed up (she is a lovely lady, but a bit shy and reserved), and made some good recommendations for things to see on the way to Clifden. She has three sons, the eldest is considering emigrating to either Canada or Australia, which was clearly sad for her – and this was one of the themes too of the trip – the “Celtic Tiger” is over, and the young can’t find work and are emigrating with Australia and Canada seeming to be the top destinations.

On the way out of Westport, we stopped at Crough Patrick, the mountain that Saint Patrick climbed, fasted for 40 days, and where he reportedly banished venomous snakes from Ireland. Donna purchased a third sweater (I get in the sweater derby later today), a really beautiful wool turtleneck sweater at the visitor center. Across the road from Croagh Patrick is the National Famine Memorial and another Abbey ruins. Then a stroll along the beach at Carrowmore before heading into County Galway.